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Oliver 2003It seems fair enough to award Sous Le Nez top prize for being gloriously out of sync with voguish Leeds. Full and grateful marks go to the rare purveyor of proper food. Not only is proper food served here, is is served in man-sized portions designed to feast the eyes even before they approach the palate. The menu is hugely extensive - also a tad expensive - promising a serious devouring of vaguely nostalgic flavours. Proper food, in other words.
Starters, for instance, include thickly savoury slices of spicy black pudding, deep fried brie with warm chutney and an absolute winner - scallops (£7.50), pan fried with calamari, peppers, ginger and veg to give a rich, tasty juice.
Lamb shank (£12.50) slow cooked to almost impossible tenderness, is served with minted herbs, a rich gravy of its own juices and haricot beans. The shank itself is sufficient for a family of four - no shying away now. One of this restaurants winners has long been the pan fried calves liver (£12.50) which is served with hefty peas pudding and bacon. Puddings run from obligatory chocolate concoctions to the irresistible spotted dick with rich vanilla custard - now you're talking. Small wonder this place is such a well loved haunt of the nostalgic school-dinner lover of uncertain age. It sure is proper food, lovingly planned, beautifully prepared and satisfying to the point of button bursting.
Eating Out with Oliver 2001
Leeds boasts a fine reputation as the eating centre of the north. With more restaurants than you could shake a stick at in the centre of this city even the pickiest of diners is spoilt for choice. But, as new establishments open at a rate of knots - virtually a new one every month - still a handful form the core of what began Leeds's reputation for restaurant renaissance remain.
Sous Le Nez, Quebec Street, is one of these. A basement brasserie with flair, it remains as popular today as when it opened around 10 years ago. If anything this under-stated restaurant has gained in substance and style over the years. It is now a fixture on the list of where best to eat in Leeds.
There are few frills here. None are needed. The quality of food, wine and service speaks for itself and draws a diverse clientele through both lunch and dinner periods. With probably the least imposing of facades, Sous Le Nez En Ville could easily be passed by, though all that could change later this year. Eton Town House Hotels are to move in upstairs, which will do much to raise the profile of this cellar based eatery. The bar area and dining room make no pretence at being other than where they are....underground. Less than light and airy, certainly, but welcoming and friendly too, there's an informal feel which makes this a popular spot for meeting friends and celebrating occasions.
